From fun and games in Rome to umbrellas, conkers, and galoshes in Kent

1960_ROME_OLYMPIC_GAMES_TICKET_BOXING_wikipedia

This post could have been sub-titled ‘Adventures of a travelling teacher,’ but really the title is quite long enough already. It seems I have inherited Dad’s love of the long and verbose sentence.

This letter marks the end of Dad’s full time travelling, and the commencement of his seven-year post at an English public boarding school in Kent. But fear not, the travels didn’t stop, they just were squeezed into weekends and school holidays.

This trip saw Dad back in Rome for the Olympic Games of 1960. His cousin was competing in the rowing events at the Games, so it was very exciting for dad to be there.

“So you wish to conquer in the Olympic games, my friend? And I too, by the Gods, and a fine thing it would be! But first mark the conditions and the consequences, and then set to work. You will have to put yourself under discipline; to eat by rule, to avoid cakes and sweetmeats; to take exercise at the appointed hour whether you like it or no, in cold and heat; to abstain from cold drinks and from wine at your will; in a word, to give yourself over to the trainer as to a physician. Then in the conflict itself you are likely enough to dislocate your wrist or twist your ankle, to swallow a great deal of dust, or to be severely thrashed, and, after all these things, to be defeated.” Epictetus

box_g_clay01_580Making history was a fighter called Cassius Clay, later to become Mohammed Ali, who took home gold at the 1960 Games. And well, the rest, as they say, is history.

22/9/1960

Dear Mum and Dad,

My apologies for not writing sooner, in spite of the fairly hectic life I have been leading lately, it was mainly slackness on my part that let it drag. It in no way reflects my feelings of pleasure on Mim’s dramatic step. It was certainly a great shock and a pleasant surprise, I send them both my heartiest congratulations and I hope they will both be very happy. The prospect of having both you and the newlyweds over here shortly is most exciting and you can’t imagine how I am looking forward to it and I am very pleased to hear the wedding will not affect your travel plans at all. It seems to be working out very well.

1960_03

By the way I just remembered two letters were sent out by surface mail as one hence the delay. I have 4 letters of yours to acknowledge. Have not heard about the insurance claim on the camera yet. Would you find out from Wastell and Cutter whether the prescription I sent you compares unfavorably with the last one they have and if so would they recommend another test?

I am very pleased to hear that the sarees have arrived at last, and so pleased that Mary likes them. There should be more things arriving soon, particularly some small carved animals in sandalwood. I was glad to hear that Ronald likes his new job and is getting good experience and pay, also to hear that John Scott is doing well at Grammar. Could you please send his mother’s address to me?

As far as Mary’s diploma is concerned, it will only carry weight in the Private schools over here and the shortage in these schools is felt more in the Primary section than the Sub-primary. But I don’t think it will too difficult to get a job in a good school if you live in. The difficulty is to find a school in, say, the Oxford area for example.

cranbrookI am settling down at Coursehorn quite nicely, the people are very nice. It’s isolated and out in the country but really quite pleasant. One drawback is that my sleeping quarters are a five minutes walk across paddocks, or down a country lane from the main building.

Have made great use of my new duffle coat, gumboots and umbrella! We have had one or two nice days but on the whole it has been dull, dank, and miserable. And during the bad period a few days ago, which you would probably have read about in the newspapers, the shops in Cranbrook Village were flooded about 18 inches to a foot in water but it didn’t affect us here! One of our trees was struck by lightening!

I enjoyed very much the Games but not as much as if I had been doing them with a friend.

27913576I was expecting to meet a German girl in Rome but she wrote to say she was recovering from an attack of pneumonia and couldn’t make it. Life in Rome nevertheless was quite hectic and I got a bit tired of it towards the end, so I disposed of my last two tickets and got a seat on a student flight to London on the afternoon of the 7th. It was half the normal fare £13/10/- and much more comfortable than a train. I felt that it was not worth rushing through Germany in less than a week as I originally planned so I took the opportunity to get back quickly and cheaply.

However it didn’t quite work out that way I left for the airport at 3:15pm on the 7th with the others, passing the 50 km walk on the way and finally got on the plane and prepared to take off. We then were told to get out again as the plane’s brakes were not responding and after a meal we were sent back to Rome, given another free meal at the air terminal.We were then taken on an all night coach journey to Rimini, about 60 miles from Venice, to catch another flight to London at 5am.

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We arrived at the airport at 4.30am, just in time to see our airplane start to take off. The ground staff knew nothing of our coming and called the plane back, only to find there were four seats short. I volunteered to stay back and three others were drawn out of a hat. So I spent 24 hours in Remini at the airline’s expense, staying at the best hotel and having all I wanted in the way of food, cigarettes, and drinks. Good value for £13/10/- eh? I finally got into London about 9am on the 9th September, Rimini is a fashionable seaside resort and quite a pleasant little spot!

Thanks for posting the Aussie papers but I need the books, I think they may be in the chest of drawers in my room.

Life at the school so far has been easy and I haven’t had a great deal to do in the way of teaching. I have a group of boys most mornings and do remedial coaching with them.

On the weekend on the 15th I have been invited to visit Stratford-Upon-Avon with a friend I met in Amsterdam.

At the moment I am fighting a cold which I got in Rimini. The germ went to the left eye but it is much better now.

At the moment the boys are in the middle of the conker contests, a national pastime now, I have to supervise them when on duty to ensure fair play.

Love

Chris

Mim, is Dad’s sister Mary, not my mum, Mary, who is also known as Mim. If you think that’s confusing try coming from a family of males who called themselves by their middle name so my uncle Stewart Ronald, is Ron, while my dad, Ronald Christopher, is Chris. My grandpa, George Ronald, was Ron too. Got that? Good. It’s the Irish blood, I’m sure of it. Why be simple and straightforward when you can be convoluted and confusing!

Anyway Mim’s news was that she was getting married. Dramatic for dad due to the fact at nearly thirty, he was the oldest and the only unmarried sibling.

One thing that never ceases to bemuse me reading dad’s letters is the pace of communication. Letters took weeks; the saris dad sent from India seemed to take about seven months to arrive.

airmailThese days if my webpage doesn’t load in a second, I feel impatient. How fast everything is, how much we have sped life up. I don’t know if it’s such a good thing. Patience is a virtue, my grandmother always said. I guess she’d know after waiting for Dad’s parcels to arrive!

I love dad’s story of the ‘quick and cheap’ flight back from Rome. It seems the ubiquitous cheap airline convoluted delay story is not a new one. – at least dad knew how to make a party of it.

Conkers is a traditional children’s game in Britain played using the seeds of Horse Chestnut trees. The game is played by two players, each with a conker threaded onto a piece of string: they take turns striking each other’s conker until one breaks.

conkers boys

Britain is believed to be the only country in the world where the game of conkers is traditionally played with horse chestnuts in the autumn. Horse chestnut trees were first introduced to England in the late 16th century from Eastern Europe.

The first recorded game of conkers was on the Isle of Wight in 1848 and was modelled on a 15th century game played with hazelnuts, also known as cobnuts.

Ah! The english and their games.

Images:

Olympic Ticket

Cassius Clay

Olympic stamps

Olympic coin

Cranbrook

Rimini

La dolce vita a Italia – Roma, Napoli, Pompei, Firenze, Milano

 

Trevi-Fountain-Rome

Please don’t be concerned that I’m going to be dropping in and out of Italian in this post. The title pretty much exhausts my knowledge of the language. Oh, and ‘attraversiamo’, from Eat Pray Love. Okay, that’s it now, done.

I have to say reading Dad’s letters is no easy feat. He was a master of squeezing about four pages of writing into a single aerogram – remember them? Which makes reading them akin to code-breaking. I think he missed his calling at Bletchley Park.

aeogramromaAh, Italy. I have only been there in E M Forster novels and Merchant Ivory films, and of course, Eat Pray Love. As such I have an impossibly romantic notion of the place. Having met plenty of Italians overseas though, I imagine it is less like travelling demurely with a maiden aunt and more like getting pinched on the bum, a lot.

If every city has a word, I imagine Rome’s is romance, La Dolce Vita.

Rome is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning. Giotto di Bondone

Florence 29/2/60

Dear Mum and Dad,

I hope all is well at home I am having quite a swift tour of Italy which has been quite interesting but rather tiring. The food varies but is mostly starch, and for the money, not very nourishing, you would get a very miserable meal 10/- in a cafe.

Michelangelo_-_Creation_of_AdamSince I wrote last I have visited the Sistine Chapel and seen Michelangelo’s famous painting on the ceiling and also work by Raphael. I also visited the usual tourist spots. Roman Forum, Colosseum, Piazza di Spagna, Keats, and Shelley’s memorial and the old Appian Way.appian-way-biking-park-cobblestone-10-m5

 On Feb 20th my friend Pat and I took a train to Naples, to which we both took an instant dislike. It is a dirty place with many pestering beggars so we took a ferry to Sorrento, which is a really charming place. We booked into a lovely hotel with a superb view of the bay and most inexpensive. It is quite the nicest place I have stayed at.

The Sunday saw us on a Ferry to Capri. It i certainly a very romantic spot – a great tourist centre and of course very expensive. There are ways of avoiding the expensive aspect of this and I have written a letter to David (Dad’s cousin, an olympic rower) outlining the economies he might like to use if he comes to Rome for the Olympic Games.capri

We spent the day walking round the island past Mussolini’s castle, old ruins, beautiful houses and gardens, and along the steep winding road, which you look down from quite a height onto this beautiful blue sea. We did not go to the Blue Grotto because the tide was not right.

Amalfi-Drive

We then caught the ferry back to Sorrento. On Monday we went in a local bus to Amalfi on what must be one of the most scenic driveways of the world. It is a fantastic drive along a steep, narrow, mountainous road with a sheer drop to the sea on one side and mountain peaks soaring up on the other with orange and olive plantations and vineyards on the side of the mountains. We were accompanied by a new Australian couple from Brisbane.

On the next two days we visited the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Unfortunately it was too cloudy to go up the Mount Vesuvius but the ruins were very interesting. Many of the houses were still standing and were very well preserved. Some of bodies were visible and distorted with the agony of their fate.

herc1

You could see the charcoal remains of loaves of bread and other food stuffs, the tools they used, and cooking implements, keys, cut-throat razors etc. all indicating a very high standard of living. Many two and three story houses were still standing. The excavations at Pompeii were commenced in the 18th century and are still continuing. They cover an area of about a square mile! It is an extraordinary place.220px-Pompeii_Garden_of_the_Fugitives_02

Our next port of call was Naples and there we stayed overnight and visited their local museum which house quite a lot of the artwork and relics from Pompeii and the Herculaneum. We then hurried back to Rome.

For extra cost we were able to fly to Pisa on the 28th. We took a bus to Florence, with the idea of returning to Pisa on the 3rd to fly to Milan. We passed the leaning tower on the way, it is quite impressive.

leaning-tower-of-pisa

The bus took nearly four hours to get to Florence we though that it never would. It went on and on stopping everywhere and we were very fortunate in getting a seat.

Florence is a beautiful city with beautiful shops, particularly for leather goods. One is always reminded her, and all over Italy, how courteous and pleasant their policemen are. They are very pleased to help and in Florence most of them seem to be able to speak English very well. Today we visited Loggia della Signoria which is famous for its architecture and statues including the famous ‘Rape of the Sabines’.Ratto delle Sabine Loggia della Signoria di Firenze

Next door is the Palazzo Vecchio which dates back to 1298. It’s chief interests are the big, rambling, ornate rooms with paintings on the walls and ceilings, and many fine sculptures. The chief drawback to these kinds of places is that there are so many of these sorts of buildings and museums about and usually the lighting is so bad that it is very difficult to see anything. I get so sick now of heavy Roman statues and gaudy art that I probably miss a lot. I don’t know how I will see a fraction of what there is to see.

Love from Chris

Oh, how magnificent a problem, to be concerned not to see all the treasures of Italy. It strikes me that these travels are very much in the style I recall from childhood. Dad is a great believer in building Rome in a day, well, if not building it, at least touring it!

Our travels were always fly-by-night tours, we would spend a day, or at the most two in a place, madly scrambling around trying to see everything, then boom! Time to move on. Decades before the Race Around the World reality TV shows, Dad had that style of travel down.

As such, he has seen so much of the world, he is a tireless traveller who will walk from sunrise to sunset to experience a place in its entirety, to soak it up and be spat out into the next place to start over again. It’s a hell of a way to travel.

Dad told me another Italian story last night at dinner. His American friend, who turned up again in Rome, I think Dad missed a major romance right there, insisted Dad have a haircut to tame his wild, colonial locks. They found a hairdresser in Sorrento, who Dad claims, worked by picking up single strands of hair and cutting them one at a time – he was there all day. Probably the only time Dad sat still on the whole trip! It does speak volumes of the Italian way of savouring every moment, every sensation in life.

I am inspired by the regal self-assurance of this city, so grounded and rounded, so amused and monumental, knowing she is held securely in the palm of history. I would like to be like Rome when I am an old lady.  Elizabeth Gilbert

 

Images:

Title Image: Trevi fountain walksofitaly.com

Michangelo’s Creation of Adam Sistene Chapel wikimedia.org

Appian Way romanhomes.com

Capri torresaracenacapri.com

Amalfi Coast Drive shedexpedition.com

Herculaneum blogspot.com

Pompeii wikimedia.org

Leaning tower Pisa blogspot.com

Loggia della Signoria esploriamo.com